I’d love this to be an ongoing thing, but who knows, i may forget about this.
Dont buy super cheap paper. I bought $0.50 notepads, but the pencil lead smears after a semester, so now as i’m studying for finals, i’m having a bit more work deciphering my notes.
I love wagons and I want 2013 Audi RS4 Avant.
http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-505143_162-28649360/force-word-to-paste-plain-text-and-lose-the-formatting-of-the-copied-text/
“You don’t necessarily want to do that every time, though, so click File, Options, and then the Advanced Tab. In the Cut, copy, and paste section, you can specify the default you want for all sorts of situations, such as copy/paste from within the same document when pasting text from another program.”
This is basically a note for myself when my headlight bulb goes out again.
This info here was what helped me the most: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f85/replacing-headlight-bulb-forester-2001-limited-97773/
Basically the part that i got stuck on was the rubber gasket that surrounds the bulb. Right after unplugging the wiring going into the bulb what I did was feel around the outer rim of the gasket and at the bottom of the gasket there is a kind of tab type area that was easy to pull up on, and i basically peeled that upward toward the center (where the electrical contacts are) and continued around the edge until i could feel the gasket coming free. It kind of stuck to the bulb in the middle. And i’m not 100% sure i reinstalled it correctly because i don’t know what you’re supposed to do with the center part of the gasket when reinstalling. But i just shoved it on there and did my best to fit it around the bulb to create a seal.
This applies to any shooting event, but here are the things I find useful to take to a shoot.
Things i still need to buy
It will probably be a long time before i build another computer, but I wanted to note a few features i’d like to have on that next computer.
Triple Monitor setup (and build a stand for it using this guide)
SSD main drive. I’ve used the Kingston HyperX 3K (model SH103S3B/480G) which is very nice (and expensive).
Sweet 2.1 speakers: I’m not a big fan of surround sound due to the hassle. But i have really enjoyed my logitech speakers and i like being able to use them for dance parties and whatnot.
Thats all for now.
I really like this tutorial here: http://www.korokithakis.net/tutorials/bittorrent/
This is the first problem I’ve had with the computer I most recently purchased/built. It started making sparking noises.
Not sure if it is the psu or graphics card, betting psu.
Update: false alarm, it was my APC power supply/protector thingy going out. i unplugged it (probably somewhere around August 2012) and no more weird noises.
How to Remove Cover (Part # 02) on Henry Golden Boy .22LR (model H004). The manual is Here.
This was strangely difficult for me. Ultimately it was the picture in green below that helped me figure it out.
Here are the steps, according to the green picture:
Somehow step 1 didn’t register in my brain, but it didn’t matter for me because the instructions (all 9 steps) are for changing the lever handle. I wasn’t doing that, thus the above steps accomplished my goal.
Resources:
Used info from Here
Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded.
During dis assembly pay attention to where things are, you will need to put them back in the same manner.
Ok, now before getting started: Check and ensure your rifle is unloaded!!
1) Take of the Front Sight Hood (33).
2) Unscrew the Barrel Band Screw (30) and slide up and off of the barrel/mag tube assembly and then gently pull the Forend (52) forward and off.
3) Unscrew the Stock Screw (50) and gently pull the Buttstock assembly down and off.
4) Unscrew all 4 Cover screws (42) and carefully work the receiver (01) up, back and off of the Carrier Axle.
5) If the Bolt (35) did not come off with the cover, remove it now by working the lever all the way down and leave it down. Even if the bolt is off already work the lever down anyhow to ensure the hammer is locked back and leave the lever down.
6) Remove Lever Pin (15) and carefully work out lever (14)
7) While holding the Lock Bar (16) in place, remove Locking Bar pin (18), then remove Lock Bar (16) and Locking Bar Spring (17).
8) While holding Hammer (21) press trigger (19) and slowly allow hammer to go as far forward as possible.
9) Slide up and remove Hammer Guide (23) and Hammer Spring (24)
10) Remove Hammer Pin (22) and then gently slide out the Hammer (21)
11) Remove Trigger pin, Trigger (19) and Trigger Spring (20)
-Now focus on the Bolt-
A) At this point with the bolt you can remove the pins to clean or replace the extractor and ejector as well as their respective springs.
B) At this point I removed all the pins and polished everything before reassembling the bolt.
Now that everything is completely apart polish all of the following pieces until they are shiny (do not change the angles though):
- entire bolt (you only have to do the parts of the bolt that make contact with the Carrier Axle, but I do the whole thing because it looks cool shiny)
- the portions of the carrier axle that the bolt rides on.
- the portion of the receiver which the bolt (may) contact when sliding through.
- the portions of the lever that (may) contact other parts.
- the portions of the lever which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of the trigger which rotate on other metal.
- the portions of trigger that engage with the hammer.
- the hammer guide ball.
- the portions of the hammer which make contact with the trigger (I also reduced this engagement just a teeny bit, but I don’t recommend that if this is your first time doing things like this).I have done the following with 100% success on 4 Henry’s now:
A) reduce the locking bar spring by 1.5 coils and stretched back out to correct size. (I used a set of outside calipers, I set them to correct size when the spring was stock).
B) reduced the trigger return spring by 3.5 coils and then stretched it back out to the correct size.
Lightly lube all components and then re-assemble by doing steps 1 through 11 in the opposite order.
Your lever should now be as smooth as silk and your trigger should be about a crisp 1lb
I should probably write up all the minor issues I have had with it over the time it took to get to where it is, it might be useful for someone or other… so let’s see…
1)Front site hood went Bye Bye – I always lose these things, I have a bunch of Henry’s and now any that get scoped I take the hood off and save it so I actually have some that way.
2) Around 70K rounds (wild guess there) Spring 17 got weak and the lever did not lock in the closed mode any more – I am sure this is due to the mod I make to the spring rather than any design flaw, but when you get the lever as smooth as mine is the huge click to lock in place is out of place, so I make the mod. (I will update my page with this I guess)
3) Unlike the pump the receiver of this is not blued, glossy black paint from a model shop works perfect to fix it right back up though when it gets too scratched- and it will – however I really like my textured paint I used which is hard as a rock, wish I still had the recipe I used to make that paint I tried to make something like the touch up paint for my large gun safe, maybe I will experiment with that next.
4) Twice I tried an idea I had and modified the carrier/carrier group, the best I can say after my experiments is: “don’t do that”I budgered it both times.
Refer to the owners manual for the numbered parts, hope this help you out.
and Here.
Go through and do all these classes: Free Writing Courses
